Stinky Fruit

I couldn’t have a Food & Drink section in a book about Singapore without including the infamous Durian. People definitely have a ‘love it/hate it’ relationship with this stinky fruit, and I have always been firmly in the latter camp, even avoiding the fruit and veg section in my local Giant supermarket due to the stench seeping out from the durian corner. So it was with some trepidation that I made my way to Geylang to check out the durian stalls.



There are several different types of durian, with names ranging from the evocatively descriptive, such as Mao Shan Wang (Cat Mountain King), Hong Xia (Red Prawn) or Mon Thong (Golden Pillow), to the boringly simple, such as D24, D1 and D100. They all vary in colour, texture and flavour, and as with lovers of wine, tea or cheese, all connoisseurs have their own personal favourites.

Local friends had pointed me in the direction of Sims Avenue, where the roadside stalls (mainly between Geylang Lorongs 11 and 19) are piled high with the prickly pungent fruit, and I had also read online reviews of the Four Seasons Durians Café, where you can take an indoor seat to sample their range of fruit on offer.



We kicked off with a D24, often lauded as people’s favourites, although to me I just couldn’t get away from the oniony/garlicky taste. Now I know that durian-lovers don’t understand what I mean by that, but then everyone has their own opinion as to what durian tastes like, and I think the oft-quoted description by British naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace sums up the complicated nature of durian tasting: “A rich custard highly flavoured with almonds gives the best general idea of it, but there are occasional wafts of flavour that call to mind cream-cheese, onion-sauce, sherry-wine, and other incongruous dishes.”



Hmmm… my thoughts exactly… Moving on, we next tried out a Hong Xia or Red Prawn. Now this wasn’t cheap – I think around $30 for one fruit – but then, as with wine, you supposedly get what you pay for. I have to say I probably agree as this was by far a superior fruit – there were no hints of onion or garlic here, but instead a creamy sweetness that actually wasn’t at all unpleasant!



Could I be converted? Well not quite yet, and I certainly wasn’t taking the left-overs home with me to stink out my apartment, instead ‘generously’ donating them to my friend. No I was off home to brush my teeth, because as Anthony Bordain warned in his No Reservations programme during a visit to Indonesia, after eating durian “Your breath will smell as if you've been French-kissing your dead grandmother”.

Durian stalls - Sims Avenue, between Geylang Lorongs 11 and 19

Four Seasons Durians Café - www.fourseasonsdurians.com
43 Joo Chiat Place (corner of Tembeling Road) – opposite Kim’s Place Seafood.

Hokkien Prawn Mee

So I’ve finally handed in my book manuscript to my editor and I am once again free to blog! My research trail has taken me exploring all around Singapore – saw me swinging from trees, whizzing down water chutes, investigating World War II tunnels… and finding all sorts of new places to eat and drink. One of my favourite new finds has to be Kim’s Place Seafood in Joo Chiat.



I was actually in the area with a friend to check out the durians (more on that later) when we stumbled across Kim’s. The smells emanating from the open-air eatery enticed us inside, and once there, the numerous magazine and newspaper articles smothering the walls convinced us of the calibre of the establishment.

All accounts seemed to suggest that the Hokkien Prawn Mee was the dish to be ordering, so that was our first choice – and at just $4.00 a pop, we couldn’t go wrong. I’m not normally a huge fan of Prawn Mee, but this dish was enough to convince me otherwise – it was truly delicious with its rich seafood stock and juicy prawns.



We obviously didn’t stop there – although the small order of Prawn Mee was certainly large enough for one person to fill up on. Instead we ploughed on with some Fried Pork on a Hot Plate,



some veggies and, because it was on special (and well, because we could) – some Cereal Lobster.



What a feast – every dish was as good as the last and we left feeling very satisfied indeed. Kim’s is not really in my usual circle of movement, but I have already been back for a plate of the Prawn Mee, and would urge others to do the same.

Kim’s Place Seafood – www.kims.com.sg
37 Joo Chiat Place (Junction of Tembeling Road). Tel 6742 1119.

Salad You Tiao

Here’s a real Singapore gem. I first went with friends not long after I moved to Singapore and I haven’t been back since – until recently. This has absolutely nothing to do with the quality of the food, and absolutely everything to do with the fact that Sin Hoi Sai is not really in my locality. But a friend was recently back in town from her new life in Sydney and suggested we go along for a feed at her old favourite haunt, and I was more than happy to accompany her.



There were only four of us so we couldn’t order too much, but what we did order was oh so good – Baby Kailan, Fried Rice,



Sweet & Sour Pork Ribs



Butter Prawns (some of the tastiest prawns I have yet had in Singapore) and… wait for it… Salad You Tiao.



Now I make a big thing about the Salad You Tiao because it was the first time I had tried it… Where have I been and what have I been doing?? I mean, how good does this taste?



For those who don’t know, you tiao are fried dough sticks that are usually eaten with Congee for breakfast (if you eat congee for breakfast that is…) This salad you tiao – or “a heart attack on a plate” as my friend called it – came stuffed with squid, and smothered in mayonnaise/salad dressing. Yes indeed, not very healthy… hmmm no wonder it tasted so good! This place is open until 4am too… man I bet those You Tiao taste even more amazing after one too many Tiger beers!

So yes, Sin Hoi Sai, definitely a real little gem and one I hopefully won’t wait another year before trying out again…

Sin Hoi Sai Eating House, 187 East Coast Road